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Radio Control Aerobatic


Plan Printing by Dave at The Final Image

Super Lucky Fly II - Build
No strings attached ... Hands-on flying with your feet on the ground
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After carving away some excess leading and trailing edge material, I made a reference line on both to use as a guide for further sanding and carving of the airfoil.

edge center marked

Sanding carefully with a long block helps to make leading edges get shaped properly.

Sanding block

I used a razor plane for this carving work, thin shavings and go slow checking twice, then a rough sanding and a check up of the overall results. This carving work takes time but I enjoy it, I try to go slow and ensure that things are straight all the time.

Check lead edge shape

Join and Glass the Center Section
At this stage I needed to attach the two wings together and to do this I used Gorilla Glue yet again. The first image is a test fit to see that all is matching up ok and I had to do a bit of adjustment to the spar joiner so get the dihedral proper.

test fit wing root

Apply glue to both root faces and the sides of the spar joiner and slide the wing panels together.

Glued and slid together

To make sure things stayed put I use a bit of cord running from tip to tip and mounted the wings in the workmate with a container for some support.

all tied up for support

Another picture for clarity... after all, ya can never have enough pictures, right??

just another ange

The wing hardened up really well and was ready for a quick sanding.

all ready for sanding

After an overall sanding in the center section I needed to add some glass cloth. This is a typical procedure in almost all balsa foam wing projects. It makes a firm connection of the balsa skins between wing panels and helps to transfer span wise loads. Nothing unusual here other than good epoxy, I used some old stuff the first go and it never properly cured. I ripped it all off and did it a second time properly with no other issues.

Fiberglass reinforcement

The next step was to install the leading edge dowel alignment pins that help hold the wing to the aircraft. This was a project that took a bit more time in getting all the parts to line up properly. As you can see in this picture, a number of alignment marks were required to get things set up before applying glue. (although this is one of the steps in the wing construction you have to have the fuselage built to do this... I know, this is a little out of sequence)

Wing Alignment Dowels

Aileron Torque Rods
This was an extra bit of work but I felt it was required to make solid performing control surfaces.

Each of the factory produced torque rods are supported by additional hinge pockets that help to mount the tubes in place. This moves the mechanical advantage closer to the rotational points of the torque rods and allows the aileron to rotate in a more positive manner.

Torque Rods

The additional parts are sheets of tin that fuel tanks are made from, they are wrapped around the brass bearing tube and they are also made to support the torque rod separately. Each hinge plate is then drilled with a few holes to serve as glue anchors in the trailing edge. These are inserted in a temporary manner until all covering and sheeting is completed and hinges can be made for the ailerons. Torque Rods temp install
Each aileron is fitted with a brass "lucky pocket" that the torque rod fits into. This brass tube is glued into the aileron and shaped to fit the taper of the aileron. This serves as a very positive connection between the torque arm and the aileron. It also allowed me to be able to remove the aileron from the wing until the aileron and wings are covered. The final step when the ailerons and wings are covered and assembled is to glue the torque arm in the pockets in the aileron very last. The aileron movement is very smooth and very positive and this makes very light moving control surfaces. Each aileron are completed and installed, and ready to have the hinge slots cut for the remaining number of hinges.

Aileron Lucky Pocket


The fuselage is built in the normal fashion like many other kits, what I found interesting was the thickness of the sheet wood used on this design as each fuselage side is a ¼ inch sheet of wood. I set a sheet on the plans and extended the lines on the plan outward to allow references to cut the remaining material away from each sheet. I also extended each sheet in the cowling area as I will be building the cowling area around the engine during construction instead of adding it on afterward. The aft end of the fuselage are extended as well, what I really needed was a 48 inch length of sheet wood to make sides from but it was not available locally at the time.

Dorsal and ventral wedges are cut from ¼ inch sheet and set aside for later.

Fuselage sides

Dorsel and Ventral Wedges

To make the front end a little stiffer I includes 1/32 plywood doublers to each section forward of the leading edge to help take the vibration of these large engines. These doublers will take the vibrations back toward the wing section and help make the airplane slightly stiffer in the front end without a lot of extra added weight.

Fuselage doubler

Lots of objects used to weight the doublers as the glue cures.

Add Weight

Once dry, the proper marks are made from the plan to indicate where formers go.

Marks for Formers

A couple of formers are made, the firewall is made from ¼ inch 6 PLY plywood that I got from the local hobby dealer. I did not want to substitute anything here. The other formers are normal poplar 3 ply plywood and are a little lighter color.


Each former has been cut in the center to allow for fuel tanks and push rods. The front former is marked for wing hold down dowels that were shown earlier. Each former is placed on the plane to test its position and size.


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